Snapshots Part XVI

Thom Browne jacket, Brunello Cucinelli pocket square, Uniqlo +J shirt, Swaine Adeney Briggs bag

Hot Cider

Cafe Select

Shirt tucking is the new sagging

Air Sperm

Left to Right, Fairfax, Engineered Garments, J. Crew, Barneys, Brunello Cucinelli

Don't believe the hype

Need to use this more

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is tropical- lies

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Do It Yourself: Tiramisu

A stroll on the Upper East Side was followed by a coffee and dessert break at Via Quadronno, a small Italian cafe. Below is Tiramisu di San dona (Venetian style) a unique “DIY” approach to traditional pre-mixed tiramisu.  The dish came with several ladyfingers, a bowl of espresso and a cocoa mascarpone concoction.

DIY tiramisu > traditional tiramisu

Sometimes, we need to look a bit fancy…

(Paul Stuart Phineas Cole navy blue pinstripe suit,  Addison combat boots, Uniqlo +J shirt, Brunello Cucinelli cashmere tie and wool pocket square, Thom Browne tie bar, Brioni socks, Timex for J. Crew watch, Ralph Lauren Purple Label sunglasses)

Photography by: Melanie M. Berger

Via Quadronno
25 E 73rd St (Madison ave.)
New York City, NY 10021-3521
(212) 650-9880
Hours: Sunday 10:30am–9pm;
Monday-Friday 8:30am–11pm;
Saturday 9:30am–11pm

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Blue Gingham

(Thom Browne jacket, sweater and tie bar, Sifr blue gingham shirt, J. Crew blue gingham pocket square, Paul Stuart Phineas Cole tweed pants, Crockett & Jones shoes, Ralph Lauren Purple Label sunglasses)

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Brilliant Steez: Flat Heads with a Speckled sole

A close friend and site contributor, Casey Fussner, has a single pair of mens jeans he wears almost daily. He has been rocking the same pair for three years, only washing them a handful of times.  When he purchased the pair from Self Edge in San Francisco, they were at its rawest state.  Stiff and cardboard-like, Casey at first had trouble putting the jeans on but after continuous wears they began to give and now are beautifully broken in fitting his body perfectly.  

Casey’s jeans, from The Flat Head, are made from the Japanese selvage and would be classified as a middleweight denim (14.5 ounces).  Casey chose a looser and more comfortable fit, the 3005, and has been able to produce some amazing natural fades and personalized “tarnish”.

The Flat Head is a Japanese denim company which only uses Japan’s coveted selvage denim to make their jeans. Selvage denim refers to the end pieces of the denim which have been sewn together at the outseam to create a clean finish. This type of denim is often woven on shuttle looms. Denim fabric woven from a shuttle loom is often very narrow from the continuous cross thread which lies horizontally in the bolt of fabric. These looms not only create narrower pieces of fabric but also take their time weaving the fabric together. This slow weave and continuous cross thread creates a much softer and durable piece of denim. Shuttle looms were first used in the 1950s by American denim manufactures such as Lee and Levi’s and were soon replaced as they could not keep up with the ever-growing denim market. Most of the looms were then shipped overseas and a majority of them can now be found in Japan were they have perfected the art of producing selvage denim.

(Sifr t-shirt, The Flat Head jeans and belt, Victorinox watch, bespoke white and yellow gold bracelets, Church’s custom grade boots)

This post was brought to you be Ellos mens jeans.

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Snapshots Part XV

I love you so But why I love you, I'll never know

"I forgot how to tie my shoelaces so I put my doublemonks on" - Melanie Berger

Faux-renza Schouler

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Wishlist: October – Winter Outerwear

The colder weather has finally set in and I have found myself wearing much heavier jackets. It is this time of the year, I pick out outerwear for the winter season. Here are some of my favorites.

This post was brought to you by Superdry.  Superdry specialize in mens clothes and have a great range of jackets and coats available online.

Raf Simons Duffle Coat – I have never owned a duffle coat and maybe this will be my first.  Raf took a different approach to the traditional leather and rope loops with rubber ones, these seem to be much more functional.

Thom Browne Formal Cashmere Topcoat – A lot of men do not own a dinner jacket and I find that incredibly absurd. Every man should have his own black tie attire and I do not believe it should be rented. However, I will excuse you if you do not own a formal outerwear piece for the occasional winter gala.

Andrea Pompilio Reversed Shearling Peacoat – This is a very unique coat from Andrea Pompilio.  I have never seen a peacoat in navy shearling, this is a great modern take on the classic piece.

Paul Smith Jeans Hooded Parka – Parkas are things I can never have too many of. Last season, I wore my Spiewak Parka all the way through April. Getting this Paul Smith parka may make my other outerwear pieces jealous.

Isaia Cashmere Overcoat – After purchasing my first Isaia sportscoat a month ago, I have been hooked. This beautiful coat is made from Aquacashmere which is Isaia’s premier water repelling fabric.  The cashmere yarns are coated in a natural repellent before it is woven.  Isaia is always innovating.

Source: Park & Bond

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The Norfolk Jacket

As a child, I have always been fascinated with hunting and military gear.  My favorite pair of shorts as a kid was olive-green and “cargoed” and I literally wore them almost every single day.  The cargo pockets, earth-tone colors and camouflage, all influence the way I dress today.  One of my favorite pieces of shooting gear is the Norfolk jacket.

The Norfolk jacket originated in England and was designed as a shooting coat. Authentic Norfolk jackets are single breasted and feature box pleats on the back and front, gussets, and allowed the shooter to lift his arms without binding to the elbows. It is not sure whether the jacket was named after the Duke of Norfolk or Norfolk itself but, the jacket became popular by the Prince of Wales and Edward VII as they would wear it during shoots.

Traditional Norfolk Jackets

 Left: Franklin D. Roosevelt Top Right: F. Scott Fitzgerald Bottom Right: Dennis Price in Kind Hearts and Coronets

Today, it is rare to find off the rack Norfolk jackets as they require a great deal of tailoring.  The box pleats take time to make and it is hard to find an authentic version.  Luckily, this season, one of my favorite designers, Thom Browne put a personal spin on the traditional Norfolk. Not only did he design a jacket for his namesake line but also for the two other lines he is involved with, Moncler Gamme Bleu and Brooks Brothers Black Fleece.  I guess Thom has a thing for the Norfolk as much as I do.

Moncler Gamme Bleu “Norfolk Coat”

Moncler Gamme Bleu “Norfolk Jacket”

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece “Norfolk Jacket”

The Thom Browne Northfolk Jacket is a long ways away from a traditional one. The box pleats are all sewn down and a strip of material replaces the functioning belt. This jacket technically speaking is a “Norfolk styled” jacket as none of the embellishments serve a functionary purpose. Cool nonetheless, the Thom Browne version is made from a tweed herringbone and features tweed elbow pads, a storm collar and pleated patch pockets.

Sources: GQ, Hypebeast, Google Image Search

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